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Yes change out to a racing dot 4.

Maybe they think the new pads will rattle around because they don't have the glue on them like OEM. That's nothing to be concerned of and changing them is an easy DIY. This is the first car I've changed brakes on myself and it wasn't difficult besides getting the OEM pads out due to the glue...

I called evasive to confirm stock on the club racers, I ordered a couple and there should be 2 sets of fronts left after my order I just placed. No rears.

I’ll take the tow hooks. Sending you a dm.

I had a great birthday weekend at CMP while also successfully completing my first time towing the car to the track. Weather forecast was rain all weekend but luckily only ended up with damp first sessions each day. Saturday session 3 was perfect, the track had dried up but rain was imminent and...

Thanks, glad to know that was the root cause and nothing to worry about. I tired Bimmerlink but it couldn't clear it. I was under the impression Bimmercode doesn't clear codes but I'll check later today and also try protools.

Does anyone know about CEL code 1E0001? (Idle Control:speed to high) I think this popped after I ran the coolant bleeder service in diagnostic mode. Test drives afterwards have been fine and I'm thinking it has to do with the fact that the service runs the engine to 3500rpm while it idles. I am...

I originally had a different set of MSH studs for about 2 years but I needed longer ones and wanted to change lug size so I've had that exact set you linked for about half a year now, still look to be in good shape and I've tracked it in the rain. I bought these nuts...

Context *WHOOSH* Me

I had a chuckle because I find this ironic. Yes I know your car is wildly different than the way it looks in your PFP but the lighting in your PFP makes it look close to his car color and also that it might have yellow DRL.

Yes same one I have. I swap wheels 2-3 times a month. I did buy aftermarket titanium nuts since my old MSH ones were prone to rusting.

For initial bed in, 10ish medium pressure brakes from 50 to 30 at varying speed reductions. Once they're warm then 5ish hard brakes from 50 to 10 but not activating ABS. Once really hot then extremely hard brake to ABS 3ish times. For track, when on the out lap drag the brake to warm them up...

No issues, they're great and all noise has gone away. I am running on medium stiffness now as I needed to reduce understeer since I'm tracking more often and autocross is less of a priority for me.

Eibach. I think full stiff is just to much on the oem endlink, hence me breaking one like vertex said.

Fwiw I did have clunk from where end link attached until I swapped to SPL endlinks. Performance is great though.

Spoke with previous owner and he's given me great advice on what to do and will let me bug him with any questions I have, love having supportive local drivers. I also went to NCM this past weekend and used those tires I mentioned previously. I had 3 months of rust to shake off and confidence in...

I'll upload some pics when I get home. Yes they're Tolleson's MCS he was selling so I should be able to get them fully legal but I don't care too much about being nationally legal, just close enough that my local competitors won't care but I reap the benefit of better suspension for the track.

I picked up a set of MCS 2WR suspension from a someone local to me and was hoping someone here could send me a picture of a fully built front shock. Ideally both uninstalled and installed. Or if I can get some guidance on what all from the OEM shock I need to move over such as this white plastic...

Very different skill sets. Read the course, execute, and refine it to get the best "lap time" within limited runs on a configuration you've never run before. Much tighter car control and you can't recover from a mistake in the same way since elements are back to back where as road courses you...

Rock between behind the front rotor and the shield. Reverse for a bit and it might work itself loose, otherwise remove the wheel and look and pry it out with a screwdriver.