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Don’t feel like doing a whole write up, busy with other projects.

If anyone is interested they can message me. They are direct replacement, you do need to run a misalignment sleeve/collar as the replacement monoball 14mm ID vs the oem bushing being a 12mm.

Been working on this project, figuring out which bushings I can find an oem monoball to fit in its place. Found 5 of 7 bushings can be replaced, the others will get a cup machined with a spherical bearing.

Bump for a solid dude!

Got a friend looking to build a race car, I tried to get this one. I put in a bid of 22k, didn’t get it… sold for $25k.

You might be fighting the sway bar, disconnect the sway bar endlink on one side then try to align it.

I wouldn’t go to Forza. His alignments are way off, either the lift and/or machine hasn’t been recalibrated. Got an alignment there and I could visually see that the camber was different from side to side. I went home and measured it with a gauge and it was off by .6 degrees. Ended up taking it...

Factory lower arm gets you in the proper camber range. Factory eccentric holds well, only benefit to changing this arm is the spherical bearings.

With 73 miles on the car.

No caffeine yet, I’m taking a closer look at your first photo, it looks like you the joint is facing forward. Rotate the bracket and you should be good.

Sway link is installed wrong on both ends. The joint that is mounted on the damper should have the stud facing towards the front of the car. The joint that mounts to the sway bar should have the stud facing away the chassis. Nitrons sway bracket is adjustable as well if you’re still having...

Can’t beat the Tomei single, 3.5” full titanium for $1100 new.

Whiteline offers a complete sway bar kit with adjustable end links that have a boot. I have zero issues with this kit. https://whitelineperformance.com/products/btk009-sway-bar-vehicle-kit

Ecutek racerom has the option to hack the sport display and use them to display other data, boost/ethanol content.. etc.

ATS kit came in, building the trans and full drivetrain refresh over the summer.

^ what they said. I also stacked my lap belts with the factory belt mounting. I added in a flanged sleeve/bushing on each mount to keep articulation of the belts.

Manufacturer of the arm didn’t design with having ease of adjustment in mind. I would extend the inner joint so the jam nut sits right on the edge the pocket of the subframe. You have to double check shank length to see if you can run one side extended and still have enough thread engagement...

What they said, it’s accessible from the top but a bit cramped. A few 8mm screws to drop the lower panel and you have plenty of room to work with.

When you upgrade the flywheel to a non dual mass, you get chatter at idle when not on the clutch which completely normal. Let’s just double the viscosity of your oil just to reduce sound? Makes perfect sense. /s

75-90 for the trans. 75-140 for the diff. I wouldn’t put 140 in the trans, that’s nearly double the viscosity at temp.