Ohlins Road & Track

rwense

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The problem is ohlins want you to have the sticker facing the brake callipers so you do that, everything looks good, you put car on the ground and check clearances and it doesn't look to bad but it is very hard to see up into the link shock mount and thats where the issue is if they had a locating lug it would be so much better. If i had my time again i most likely would have gone with MCS but i could not justify the extra cash to the minister of war and finance as it was ohlins cost $5500 AUD. Front sway bar end links landed from US cost about $500 AUD
"minister of war and finance" hahahaha
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FLtrackdays

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FLtrackdays

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Highly recommend going with ANY other MCS dealer than Vorshlag. Trash setup, trash support. Never ever buying anything from Vorshlag and Terry again.

MCS themselves are amazing when it comes to support.
Damn… good to know! I spoke to someone closing up shop on Friday. Helpful in my situation….
 
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DanzBurG

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Hey guys long time lurker of this thread.. I'm trying to make a decision between these and maybe the MCS 1ways. I'm leaning a little towards these as I've used and had good luck with Ohlins in the past. I read through the entire thread and I just wanted to make sure of a few things before I pulled the trigger on either or so my question to you guys would be:

1) Ohlins w/ Vorshlag Cambers plates don't allow the car to sit very low?
2) The optional swift springs + helpers that some have spec'd make it so its more adjustable?
3) Do I need aftermarket front endlinks? If so what brand is recommended? I see SPL & whiteline mentioned on some websites.

For reference, I'm planning on running 18x10.5 +34 wheels w/ 295/35/18 tires. It'll be a street/track build with more of a emphasis the trackside. Obviously I want the car to look good and handle well at the same time so I'd be happy with 1-1.5 finger gap. Is this achievable with just the coils and the camber plates or do the coils need to be revalved w/ new springs and helpers?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Islindur

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Hey guys long time lurker of this thread.. I'm trying to make a decision between these and maybe the MCS 1ways. I'm leaning a little towards these as I've used and had good luck with Ohlins in the past. I read through the entire thread and I just wanted to make sure of a few things before I pulled the trigger on either or so my question to you guys would be:

1) Ohlins w/ Vorshlag Cambers plates don't allow the car to sit very low?
2) The optional swift springs + helpers that some have spec'd make it so its more adjustable?
3) Do I need aftermarket front endlinks? If so what brand is recommended? I see SPL & whiteline mentioned on some websites.

For reference, I'm planning on running 18x10.5 +34 wheels w/ 295/35/18 tires. It'll be a street/track build with more of a emphasis the trackside. Obviously I want the car to look good and handle well at the same time so I'd be happy with 1-1.5 finger gap. Is this achievable with just the coils and the camber plates or do the coils need to be revalved w/ new springs and helpers?

Thanks in advance!
The car is supposed to be the fastest as close to stock height as possible, I would not lower it even 1cm if its possible, but I dunno if it is? I'm planning to use Millway camber plates instead of Vorshl.

At this point I'd either do R&T as a cheaper path or MCS 2-way if U can.
 

Kujiwara

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The car is supposed to be the fastest as close to stock height as possible, I would not lower it even 1cm if its possible, but I dunno if it is? I'm planning to use Millway camber plates instead of Vorshl.

At this point I'd either do R&T as a cheaper path or MCS 2-way if U can.
From what I gathered, near stock height is best because when Jackie Ding measured the rear toe change, the toe is pretty consistent until the extreme ends of the suspension travel (full compression and droop). It's fine if you lower it a bit if it's stiffened sufficiently as well.

I think R&T is fine for stock body track day cars on reasonably sticky tires and owners that don't need visual lowering.
For stickier tires or if we start to get to aero, MCS 2-way or JRZ something more tailored would be better.

 

Islindur

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From what I gathered, near stock height is best because when Jackie Ding measured the rear toe change, the toe is pretty consistent until the extreme ends of the suspension travel (full compression and droop). It's fine if you lower it a bit if it's stiffened sufficiently as well.

I think R&T is fine for stock body track day cars on reasonably sticky tires and owners that don't need visual lowering.
For stickier tires or if we start to get to aero, MCS 2-way or JRZ something more tailored would be better.

R&T stiffed to ~3 clicks wont hold sth like full Verus aero on semi slicks?
 

FLtrackdays

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Hey guys long time lurker of this thread.. I'm trying to make a decision between these and maybe the MCS 1ways. I'm leaning a little towards these as I've used and had good luck with Ohlins in the past. I read through the entire thread and I just wanted to make sure of a few things before I pulled the trigger on either or so my question to you guys would be:

1) Ohlins w/ Vorshlag Cambers plates don't allow the car to sit very low?
2) The optional swift springs + helpers that some have spec'd make it so its more adjustable?
3) Do I need aftermarket front endlinks? If so what brand is recommended? I see SPL & whiteline mentioned on some websites.

For reference, I'm planning on running 18x10.5 +34 wheels w/ 295/35/18 tires. It'll be a street/track build with more of a emphasis the trackside. Obviously I want the car to look good and handle well at the same time so I'd be happy with 1-1.5 finger gap. Is this achievable with just the coils and the camber plates or do the coils need to be revalved w/ new springs and helpers?

Thanks in advance!
Too low and you can get rub, obviously. That and bigger tires also can reduce your turn in. Just keep that in mind and watch the hood wheel well when you start tracking.

Sounds like you have a good comprehension of what you’re doing & going on. In that case the MCS has more variables you can play with. Which would probably fit you best :)
 
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noogie

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just picked up a set of ohlins road and track and will be installing them in the spring. i'll be using the OEM top hats to keep this more or less a street car with some occasional autox/track.

just a few things i noticed. the procedures ask to cut the bottom of the dust boot by 30mm. i confirmed with ohlins USA this is to allow water to evacuate. if you don't cut it, the boot creates a seal with the shock body and could potentially trap water.

here's the original uncut dust boot. there are holes in the boot to allow some water to escape, but still possible to trap water based on the design. i circled where the holes are.
1704583222169.png


here's the 30mm cut dust boot.
1704583306910.png
 

noogie

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has anyon done a dyno on these shocks yet? the closest i've found that describes ohlins curves is this:



not specific to the gr supra but i would imagine the tuning strategy will be similar for all applications. it's probably double digressive. soft settings will be similar to OEM curve.
 

FLtrackdays

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has anyon done a dyno on these shocks yet? the closest i've found that describes ohlins curves is this:



not specific to the gr supra but i would imagine the tuning strategy will be similar for all applications. it's probably double digressive. soft settings will be similar to OEM curve.
I’ve got a buddy with a shop close to Sebring that wants to dyno mine. I’ll let you know. I would think everyone would be different due to so many variables
 

noogie

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I’ve got a buddy with a shop close to Sebring that wants to dyno mine. I’ll let you know. I would think everyone would be different due to so many variables
they should be similar unless the shocks are worn. The Ohlins service centers can request a factory dyno sheet so they can match a rebuilt shock with the factory curves.
 

Evolution

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Alright guys, I have been getting multiple people asking me if I can make more adapters so that you can run the Verus top hats on the Ohlins. It shouldnt be an issue for me as long as I can find my notes on them. Besides the people who have already sent me a DM, would anyone else be interested in a set? To make it cost worthy, I will probably have to make around 10 sets.
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