i3igpete
Well-Known Member
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- #1
Titan motorsports exhaust did not come with any install docs. This is not my first exhaust install by any means, but hopefully these tips can save the next person some time.
- check the number stampings on the clamps. There will be one with a different number than the rest, this is for the downpipe connection.
-discard the exhaust valve motor's heat shield, it won't fit flush onto the provided bracket
-motor bracket does not include any hardware, and unlike the factory bracket does not have threaded holes. You can reuse the 3 OEM motor-to-bracket bolts, but you will need to find matching nuts
-the motor bracket is a separate piece. You will need 2 bolts and nuts to mount it to the exhaust bracket. this will be a smaller size than the motor bolt, and will need to be a socket head to clear
-the flapper valve is actuated by a "castle arm" that needs a small bolt and nut. I initially tried to use a cotter pin, but this would cause the "castle" to skew when actuated. Note that there are two holes you can possibly use. From what I can tell, one hole will have the valve very slightly cracked open when in normal mode, presumably to eliminate rattle or maybe provide a little extra volume.
- installing the spring clip will be backwards from how it was from the factory. The half moon side of the clip is too small to fit on the Titan "castle" so you will need to put it on the motor side
- the wiring harness will be able to reach the motor, but you need to Route it over the heat shield. Unbolt this black bolt on the heat shield to make your life easier.
-Midpipe will clear the underbrace without spacers if you fiddle around with the fitment. However, its really close to both the brace and the heat shield. I ended up using spacers anyway - the last thing I want is the pipe to vibrate the crap out of the transmission tunnel and armrest. Related tip, use some extra large diameter stainless nuts rather than a stack of washers. Lining up a stack of washers is a pain.
Sound impressions:
When the valve is open it's pretty loud, it basically sounds like any other straight pipe exhaust. However, a singular midpipe somehow eliminates raspiness, even with a catless downpipe. Not sure why, but this is why I specifically picked a system with a singular midpipe.
Closed, the muffler eliminates the low frequency bass drone, but the exhaust sounds identical otherwise.
edit: I found that my camera did capture the sound difference between normal and sport on the highway, but you will need to wear a good headset/earbuds to hear the difference.
- check the number stampings on the clamps. There will be one with a different number than the rest, this is for the downpipe connection.
-discard the exhaust valve motor's heat shield, it won't fit flush onto the provided bracket
-motor bracket does not include any hardware, and unlike the factory bracket does not have threaded holes. You can reuse the 3 OEM motor-to-bracket bolts, but you will need to find matching nuts
-the motor bracket is a separate piece. You will need 2 bolts and nuts to mount it to the exhaust bracket. this will be a smaller size than the motor bolt, and will need to be a socket head to clear
-the flapper valve is actuated by a "castle arm" that needs a small bolt and nut. I initially tried to use a cotter pin, but this would cause the "castle" to skew when actuated. Note that there are two holes you can possibly use. From what I can tell, one hole will have the valve very slightly cracked open when in normal mode, presumably to eliminate rattle or maybe provide a little extra volume.
- installing the spring clip will be backwards from how it was from the factory. The half moon side of the clip is too small to fit on the Titan "castle" so you will need to put it on the motor side
- the wiring harness will be able to reach the motor, but you need to Route it over the heat shield. Unbolt this black bolt on the heat shield to make your life easier.
-Midpipe will clear the underbrace without spacers if you fiddle around with the fitment. However, its really close to both the brace and the heat shield. I ended up using spacers anyway - the last thing I want is the pipe to vibrate the crap out of the transmission tunnel and armrest. Related tip, use some extra large diameter stainless nuts rather than a stack of washers. Lining up a stack of washers is a pain.
Sound impressions:
When the valve is open it's pretty loud, it basically sounds like any other straight pipe exhaust. However, a singular midpipe somehow eliminates raspiness, even with a catless downpipe. Not sure why, but this is why I specifically picked a system with a singular midpipe.
Closed, the muffler eliminates the low frequency bass drone, but the exhaust sounds identical otherwise.
edit: I found that my camera did capture the sound difference between normal and sport on the highway, but you will need to wear a good headset/earbuds to hear the difference.
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. the dinan design is just so weird (3.25 inch primary, 2.5 inch offshoot, 3 inch muffler exit into a 3.25 tip entry...). Whereas the titan is 3.5 everywhere except for the DP connection.
