MT Supra Driving advice

[lucky phil]

Hence my point that no two seem to be alike...

Every mechanical device has it's variations but in this case I think it's more to do with whats going on between the ears of the drivers than whats happening inside the transmission.

Phil

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[bk5]

What I mean by that is, sometimes when upshifting at speed, as I let out the clutch and feel it engage with the powertrain, it is quite an aggressive jolt in the rear, and it just feels unsafe, particularly 3rd to 4th. I can't tell if it would just be better to shift faster overall, or is it me trying to be "gentler" with the shifts making the revs drop so then when it engages the engine rpm speed is jolting the clutch plate...

Do you have auto rev matching enabled? If not, then enable it.

Are you taking forever to shift? You don't need to speed shift it or anything, but you also shouldn't be taking more than 2 seconds to shift 3-4.

Are you shifting at under 2000 RPM? Don't. Rev it out to at least 3k during normal driving. I'm usually doing 40-50MPH before I get into fourth.

I've not been in the car with you before, but I've been in the car with lots of people who shift way too early, and take forever to complete it. And it was always people who only drive economy cars/trucks, they shift at like 1800rpms, but take forever so the car loses too much momentum and the lack of torque after the gear shift makes the whole experience nauseating.

If you're driving along and you pop the clutch at 4000RPM, but the engine would be at 3000RPM at that travel speed and gear, then you'll get a tiny lurch as the weight of the car brings down the engine RPM, but the CDV will mask it. But if you're popping the clutch at 2000RPM when it should be at 3k, then you're effectively using your clutch as a brake. So if it feels like the car is braking when you're letting out the pedal, I bet you're RPM is too low.

This is all speculation though. If you posted a video of your driving, it will probably be obvious to people here how you might improve.

 

[Supra_UK_]

you own one of the best MTs available today. don't stress it. this little inconvenience gives the car personality, youknowwhatimean

You are right, yet, at the same time, when I saw the valuations for the car, the personality of this car equals "broke ass"

Do you have auto rev matching enabled? If not, then enable it.

Are you taking forever to shift? You don't need to speed shift it or anything, but you also shouldn't be taking more than 2 seconds to shift 3-4.

Are you shifting at under 2000 RPM? Don't. Rev it out to at least 3k during normal driving. I'm usually doing 40-50MPH before I get into fourth.

I've not been in the car with you before, but I've been in the car with lots of people who shift way too early, and take forever to complete it. And it was always people who only drive economy cars/trucks, they shift at like 1800rpms, but take forever so the car loses too much momentum and the lack of torque after the gear shift makes the whole experience nauseating.

If you're driving along and you pop the clutch at 4000RPM, but the engine would be at 3000RPM at that travel speed and gear, then you'll get a tiny lurch as the weight of the car brings down the engine RPM, but the CDV will mask it. But if you're popping the clutch at 2000RPM when it should be at 3k, then you're effectively using your clutch as a brake. So if it feels like the car is braking when you're letting out the pedal, I bet you're RPM is too low.

Thanks for the long message.

Yes IMT on but seems not to work upshifting.

No I never shift low rpm really and this issue is specifically when travelling fast, and yes I shift as described not too slow but not stupidly fast.

 

[Supra_UK_]

I've never read so much gear change clutch technique navel gazing in my life. I just get in the car and drive the best clutch and transmission I've ever used in 50 years of driving.

Phil

Thanks Phil. These things are very difficult to explain in writing, I did my best effort in my original post but perhaps still unclear.
To recap - I do agree with people that the MT is superb, no doubt, but yes reverse gear is silly, and 1-2 can be lurchy sometimes, but my post is a bit different and specific to high speed situations and the way the car seems to jerk a little too much in the higher gears. Again it may be normal and I am just not used to it, but then I also noticed that when I am going very fast and I downshift, the IMT works so well and the car is very composed which makes me wonder about why upshifting can't be as smoothe.
Hence why I feel potentially there may be some technique/driver mod potentially, mixed with the CDV "issue". Is it worth trying a tiny throttle blip rev match on upshifts?

 

[lucky phil]

Thanks Phil. These things are very difficult to explain in writing, I did my best effort in my original post but perhaps still unclear.
To recap - I do agree with people that the MT is superb, no doubt, but yes reverse gear is silly, and 1-2 can be lurchy sometimes, but my post is a bit different and specific to high speed situations and the way the car seems to jerk a little too much in the higher gears. Again it may be normal and I am just not used to it, but then I also noticed that when I am going very fast and I downshift, the IMT works so well and the car is very composed which makes me wonder about why upshifting can't be as smoothe.
Hence why I feel potentially there may be some technique/driver mod potentially, mixed with the CDV "issue". Is it worth trying a tiny throttle blip rev match on upshifts?

Not sure my shifting is done instinctively and I have no issues. I shift it fast and don't hang about getting the process done is about all I can say. Then again after over 50 years or riding big sports bikes on the road and track I learned on a forum recently that about 30% of the riders there didn't blip the throttle on the down shifts and thought it was only "showing off" or trying to attract attention from passers by! Not doing throttle blipping for down shifting on a bike is a riding technique/style I'm still gobsmacked by and trying to "get over" . I'll believe anything with regards to rider/driver clutch and gearbox technique these days, lol.

Phil

 

[Tacoma714]

I am glad consensus seems to be a car issue/design feature so I can rest easy, but at the same time annoyed at this - makes me want to switch to an auto.

Sharpen your sword. Trust me if you do the CDV delete and you have a chance to push the car, you'll never want to go back. Unless you love to street race or drag race which of course an auto would help. As far as driving around time, being rowdy, cutting through traffic, down shifting during your commute, running errands, etc... there is absolutely no better feeling like this manual. I have a ZF8 auto transmission in the X7 I got my wife and it's a beast, but just not the same connection to the car.

 

[Supra_UK_]

Sharpen your sword. Trust me if you do the CDV delete and you have a chance to push the car, you'll never want to go back. Unless you love to street race or drag race which of course an auto would help. As far as driving around time, being rowdy, cutting through traffic, down shifting during your commute, running errands, etc... there is absolutely no better feeling like this manual. I have a ZF8 auto transmission in the X7 I got my wife and it's a beast, but just not the same connection to the car.

Thanks nice post

 

[Spart]

Phil is quick to jump on any post with a mention of CDV delete and antagonize even though he:

• Admittedly has never driven a car before and after a CDV delete.
• Thinks it does nothing, despite BMW making identical parts with and without it for... some reason?
• Can't heel-toe. To be fair to Phil, that's a parenting failure but he's probably old enough to teach himself by now.

Just ignore him, delete your CDV, and be happy like thousands of other modern manual BMW drivers.

 

[lucky phil]

Phil is quick to jump on any post with a mention of CDV delete and antagonize even though he:

• Admittedly has never driven a car before and after a CDV delete.
• Thinks it does nothing, despite BMW making identical parts with and without it for... some reason?
• Can't heel-toe. To be fair to Phil, that's a parenting failure but he's probably old enough to teach himself by now.

Just ignore him, delete your CDV, and be happy like thousands of other modern manual BMW drivers.

Now thats funny. Heel and toeing is another load of road drivers rubbish people go on about driving their road car. It's a totally useful and necessary basically mandatory thing on a race track where you are braking hard with a ton of brake pedal pressure that gives a solid pivot point for the ball of the right foot so you can stab at the throttle with the outside of the same foot. On a road car where you're never braking with that degree of brake pedal pressure then a clean and smooth heel and toe is virtually impossible. Under road braking the brake pedal pressure is rarely ever high enough to provide the solid brake pedal platform the foot needs to pivot without affecting the brake pressure and therefor smooth braking as you heel and toe. Year I know all the pro drivers here that never got a chance will be jumping on this comment but I'm betting your hit rate for a clean seamless heel and toe downshift without jerky braking is about 1 in 50 if that.

Phil

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