500whp - 550whp track build

[damage]

Hi all,

I have an incoming '23 premium edition auto coming soon and I'm trying to figure out the mods I'll need in order to achieve between 500whp to 550whp reliably for regular track use. I've been reading various build threads and whatnot and here's what I think I need so far to make it track worthy...

• Tune (good GOD there's so many options. No idea where to start)
• Downpipe (hoping catted is sufficient as I don't like the smell of catless and prefer not to pollute the environment)
• Exhaust (thinking single to save weight. Maybe titanium if they hold up to track use. In the porshe GT3 world, titanium cracks...)
• Intake (do I need this or stock box is sufficient?)
• Pads (no clue what's decent here)
• Steel brake lines and fluids
• Intake manifold (read this is good for keeping it cool)
• Bigger radiator (read this might not be needed)
• Coilovers (perhaps the KWv3)
• Aftermarket seats (something simple like Recaro Pole Positions. Not sure what seat bracket works with the supra)
• Lighter wheels (probably going with 18's square for weight and more tire options)
• Vented hood (either full aftermarket hood or hood cutouts)
• Vented fenders (either vents on hood or side fenders with venting)
• Front lip (probably going with Verus high downforce version)
• Rear wing (swan neck of some kind)

From an engine perspective, what else do I need to get to those power figures? I'm hoping I don't have to use special fuels or methanol, etc to get there.

Sponsored

 

[jtsang25]

Look what I found using the search bar.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/gr-supra-101-routes-to-big-power.17670/page-5#post-284974

 

[D3ad_Hand]

Look what I found using the search bar.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/gr-supra-101-routes-to-big-power.17670/page-5#post-284974

Use this thread for power figures. Also it explains the pain stacking process of tuning MHD and BM3 the locked ECU etc. Look at the thread it will explain most questions.

• Tune (good GOD there's so many options. No idea where to start)
• Downpipe (hoping catted is sufficient as I don't like the smell of catless and prefer not to pollute the environment)
• Exhaust (thinking single to save weight. Maybe titanium if they hold up to track use. In the porshe GT3 world, titanium cracks...)
• Intake (do I need this or stock box is sufficient?)
• Pads (no clue what's decent here)
• Steel brake lines and fluids
• Intake manifold (read this is good for keeping it cool)
• Bigger radiator (read this might not be needed)
• Coilovers (perhaps the KWv3)
• Aftermarket seats (something simple like Recaro Pole Positions. Not sure what seat bracket works with the supra)
• Lighter wheels (probably going with 18's square for weight and more tire options)
• Vented hood (either full aftermarket hood or hood cutouts)
• Vented fenders (either vents on hood or side fenders with venting)
• Front lip (probably going with Verus high downforce version)
• Rear wing (swan neck of some kind)

From an engine perspective, what else do I need to get to those power figures? I'm hoping I don't have to use special fuels or methanol, etc to get there.

Tune: Depends on your tuner and if he tunes EcuTek, BM3, MHD. BM3 is in the lead right now, because it has more features than MHD.

Downpipe: Active Autoworke guaranteed no CEL, and it's the best in quality and what every one goes for.

Exhaust: Single exit titanium, go for tomei single exist. Sounds amazing, looks good, isn't that expensive. You got boostlogic as well, but expensive as hell, but its 20.75 lbs so weight savings of 33.85 lbs. Rk titanium as well if you really want a single exist titanium.

Intake: If your stock turbo, you don't need one. The stock one is good. Saw some people get to 700whp without changing the stock intake. Not much turbo noises though. So either go for AramaSpeed or MST V2 intake. A lot of turbo noises, both good quality, both are really good.

Pads / Steel brake: idk tbh

Intake Manifold: YES GET ONE. go for Eos or CSF.

Bigger radiator: go for CSF (my opinion)
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/a90-supra-heat-exchanger-list-specifications.11113/

Coilovers: Personal preference. Some go Ohlin's, MSS, HKS. So do your research on that one.

Aftermarket seats: Also personal preference

Lighter wheels: Volk racing (my opinion)

Vented hood: Verus engineering, Seibon, there are other brands which provide vented hoods. These are the at the top off of my head.

Vented fenders: these don't work to my knowledge, But @stormgreysupra provides some on his website https://oemplusmods.com/en-gb. I'll let him answer if these works or not.

Front lip: Verus engineering

Rear wing: Trust me people tried looking for the gt4 wing, but to no avail. All swan neck wings on the market are hot garbage. Either go for Verus engineering for an adjustable wing that is for track use, and actually looks good. Unlike so many other wings. Another option is LBWK has an amazing swan neck wing. However, it cost's like 6-7K USD.

Also the ECU is locked. You're gonna need to ship it to Finland to get it unlocked. I think now you can get that done in 2 weeks or so or less. Check the thread linked by @jtsang25. I explain all the things needed to reach 500whp, and the things that are gonna be a pain in the ass on they way to getting 500whp.

As to reach 500whp. Downpipe, methanol, port injection if you want to. Downpipe E50. It's really simple getting 500whp.

Please use the search bar next time. Trust me you can find a lot of things that are useful to you.

P.S I think @razorlab might wanna get in on this.

 

[damage]

Thanks for the info!

Regarding the rear wing, I was thinking Verus or this one..
https://spagesport.ca/collections/mk5-supra/products/toyota-supra-a90-carbon-fiber-rear-wing-kit

It's the same one Jackie Ding uses. I think he's got it mounted higher up on the rear hatch though or perhaps he ended up with another one but at some point he definitely had this one.

 

[D3ad_Hand]

Thanks for the info!

Regarding the rear wing, I was thinking Verus or this one..
https://spagesport.ca/collections/mk5-supra/products/toyota-supra-a90-carbon-fiber-rear-wing-kit

It's the same one Jackie Ding uses. I think he's got it mounted higher up on the rear hatch though or perhaps he ended up with another one but at some point he definitely had this one.

I would still say go for Verus. But good luck with the build.

 

[Awales74]

From an engine perspective, what else do I need to get to those power figures? I'm hoping I don't have to use special fuels or methanol, etc to get there.

You can get close on 93. I'm not a tuner so I'll bungle the explanation. But essentially we are fuel limited and so more boost leads to running lean. You either dump more fuel or fuel with higher octane. Most common is a splash of ethanol. E30 or so can help out a good bit. But anymore than this and you're off for a fuel pump of some sort.

Tune -- see the link others provided.
Downpipe -- AA is the winner. If it's 100% track toy then you might want to consider catless.
Exhaust -- Skip, no impact to performance. Weight difference is minimal.
Intake -- Skip, car isn't limited by the amount of air it can ingest.
Intake manifold -- where the real money is. consider port injection for the fueling issue above.
Vented hood -- this follows the intake manifold

As far as brakes, suspension, aero, seats. Drive the car first. Drive a lot.

 

[romanLegion9574]

A titanium exhaust and lightweight battery will move more weight to the front, but will save you ~40 pounds each.

Pads: CSG should be good, I've only heard good things.

If money is not an issue, this aero kit exists.

 

[Awales74]

Exhaust - Titanium single tip costs $1390. It saves 37.4 lbs (55.3 lbs - 17.9 lbs) (https://stmtuned.com/products/tb609...:text=We price match!,in at just 17.19 pounds!). Old dragster wives tale is that 10 lbs weight savings equals 1 hp. So that's 3.7 hp gain for $1390. That's $375 dollars per hp assuming you do the work yourself AND you don't buy a little plastic piece to cover up the gapping hole left by the missing second tip. Butt dynos, for average people, only really pick up increases close to 10%. So you only feel an improvement of 38hp or more -- so that's $1390 for effectively nothing (unless your measuring track times to the hundredth). That's a lot of dollars for little performance gain and is why you generally only hear people talking about these things like musical instruments.

Battery -- Lithium ion batteries are no joke. Not as pricy of weight savings as the Exhaust. But consider how lithium ion batteries live and die compared to their hefty lead acid batteries. You'll find the lithium ion is much farther into the "race car" category than some will let on. But what do I know? Some guys cut out their cats, straight pipe the exhaust, install 5 point harnesses and racing seats into daily drivers.

Sponsored