Starting a 80/20 track street project. Teach me wheels.

tomfree

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Yea


Yes I have done HPDE with NASA.

I went with the car bone stock after the engine break in at 1200 miles.

The instructor suggested pads and brake fluid and go back again. Which I did. (I also changed the oil at that point)

I’m not gonna be back until December due to our grueling summers here in Miami. But in the meantime I have a nascar experience day in September. 😂😂😂

I am also one of the drivers for the medical team at the Miami F1 GP we are at turns 1,11 and 17 for the Porsche series, the F1 and the F1 academy this year, we’ve been doing that for 3 years and we are due back in 2024. There is track time for us but in a fully loaded Cayenne and on my own. So not a lot of learning except handling that brick as best as and as fast possible on the race line.

I’d rather have an instructor for as long as I can.
As someone who's been attended to by track medical staff before...I appreciate what you do.

OK...good to know where you are in the learning curve. Yeah, hustling a loaded Cayenne around and hustling your Supra around for 30 minutes are pretty different as you well know.

I still stick with my recommendation for simplistic approach for at least 3 or 4 more events...and if they are at different tracks, even better.
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tomfree

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OK, now that I'm clued in on something that's a year old...Those static negative camber knuckles are a standard way manufacturers deal with cars that have been in an accident and don't align quite right without a little help. A more elegant solution than eccentric lower control arm "crash" bolts. If you're not building to a ruleset that limits camber adjustment, you'll get more bang for the buck from camber plates/adjustable LCAs.
 

bushido

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OK, now that I'm clued in on something that's a year old...Those static negative camber knuckles are a standard way manufacturers deal with cars that have been in an accident and don't align quite right without a little help. A more elegant solution than eccentric lower control arm "crash" bolts. If you're not building to a ruleset that limits camber adjustment, you'll get more bang for the buck from camber plates/adjustable LCAs.
it's suitable for those who want to remain in a respective autoX class and its mod restrictions :drive:
 

tomfree

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it's suitable for those who want to remain in a respective autoX class and its mod restrictions :drive:
No disrespect intended...as I fought with crash bolts to get a half degree more of negative camber on a G-Stock (this should tell you how long ago it was) Probe GT.
 

noogie

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OK, now that I'm clued in on something that's a year old...Those static negative camber knuckles are a standard way manufacturers deal with cars that have been in an accident and don't align quite right without a little help. A more elegant solution than eccentric lower control arm "crash" bolts. If you're not building to a ruleset that limits camber adjustment, you'll get more bang for the buck from camber plates/adjustable LCAs.
OEM components have OEM build and reliability. Aftermarket parts seem to always have issues and you'll want to inspect it more frequently. SPL recall anyone?

i would still prefer a set of $15 crash bolts than $600 worth of OEM knuckles. not to mention, they're 100% easier to install.
 

ky.supra

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3.0 base.
Want to start by figuring out the optimal wheel / tire size. Application would be a car that I can drive to the track.

I’m planning to modify suspension and add BBK + other performance mods.
Not sure if 18”, or 19” squared or staggered.

Looks are secondary.

budget not a major issue.

Thanks.
if you do get bbk, make sure it clears your 18" wheels
 

tomfree

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if you do get bbk, make sure it clears your 18" wheels
At stock-ish power levels, the OEM brakes are plenty capable on track. I know some of the higher power cars have upgraded brakes, but I'd personally put that way down the list. If you've done race pads, good fluid, and brake cooling upgrades...and you're running out of brake, that's when I'd do a BBK.
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