Clutch Slipping on stock A91 MT...

[puppers]

Did you feel your past bimmer needing parts replaced sooner/ parts prone to failing prematurely?

Yes, only because it was a N54 LOL. Ugh.

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[jtsang25]

Yes, only because it was a N54 LOL. Ugh.

Is it because it's an N54 from the beginning and would have happened regardless lol or JB+ was part of the reason?

 

[puppers]

Is it because it's an N54 from the beginning and would have happened regardless lol or JB+ was part of the reason?

It's because it was a N54 haha. JB+ and JB4 didn't really accelerate anything.

The common issues with N54's happened regardless of me being tuned, unfortunately lol.

 

[puppers]

I just got the JB+ and just like you I'm not interested in tuning atm. JB+ is the best bang for the buck out there! You'll feel the difference day 1 of the install with the factory JB+ boost setting.

I just installed the JB+ and turned the dial to the max setting. Prior to JB+, if I did WOT from 1-2, 2nd would be burning quite a bit of tire before it caught on and rocketed forward. With JB+, it either feels like it's laying down power better or there's less power lol.

What does your 1st to 2nd WOT feel like?

Unsure if it's cause it's warmer in NorCal today and the tires are sufficiently warm or if cause there's something odd going on.

 

[RyanA90]

I just installed the JB+ and turned the dial to the max setting. Prior to JB+, if I did WOT from 1-2, 2nd would be burning quite a bit of tire before it caught on and rocketed forward. With JB+, it either feels like it's laying down power better or there's less power lol.

What does your 1st to 2nd WOT feel like?

Haven’t adjusted to the max setting yet. It’s recommended to run 93+ I believe. I’ll fill up with a couple gallons of E mixed with 91 then turn it to the max on the next tank and give it a try!

 

[CortC]

After 5 months my transmission and clutch have been flawless. The transmission is on of the best manuals I have owned and driven, and I have owned or driven just about everything over the years. The clutch has good bite and engagement and very linear with a nice and consistent engagement. Every setup is different and you have to learn the car and properly break in the clutch.

I am sure that some folks may have had or are having issues whether real or perceived, however so far this seems to be isolated to either out right abuse or improper technique. All the serious reviews and my experience so far is that this is a well designed setup that Toyota put a lot of time and effort to get right.

 

[Spart]

so far this seems to be isolated to either out right abuse or improper technique.

It's always a poor assessment of the situation when you look at your sample of one and conclude that everyone else is crazy.

I haven't had problems either, but that doesn't mean problems don't exist.

I tracked my GT350 hard and put 10k miles on it. It burned a normal amount of oil and used oil analysis showed perfectly low levels of metal in the oil. That engine never gave me any problems.

Not a useful data point to determine that the engine generally didn't have issues, but the one I had was great.

 

[lucky phil]

After 5 months my transmission and clutch have been flawless. The transmission is on of the best manuals I have owned and driven, and I have owned or driven just about everything over the years. The clutch has good bite and engagement and very linear with a nice and consistent engagement. Every setup is different and you have to learn the car and properly break in the clutch.

I am sure that some folks may have had or are having issues whether real or perceived, however so far this seems to be isolated to either out right abuse or improper technique. All the serious reviews and my experience so far is that this is a well designed setup that Toyota put a lot of time and effort to get right.

Nice to hear your feedback. Somehow it seems with every manual sold these days the manufacturers fit a totally pointless restrictor to the clutch system that causes poor shifting and burnt out clutches. I mean it's pretty obvious that you'd sell a car with something that will cause failure and a bad driving experiences. Apparently all manufacturers seem to be misguided enough to do it. Ford, BMW, GM in my experience all fit them so the clutches fail and the shifting is bad. Apparently removing them which is super easy leads to clutch and shifting Navana.
I'm thinking it's a "conspiracy" by the manufacturers engineers that are "on the take" from automatic manufacturers. They pay the Toyota, Ford and GM engineers to fit restrictors so the clutches blow up and the trans shift bad so they trade them in for autos. It's a cunning plan that's for sure. Lucky we have' expert people on the internet that are wise to their dastardly plans and guide us in the right direction.

Phil

 

[puckshaw]

 

[ColonelAdama]

I just installed the JB+ and turned the dial to the max setting. Prior to JB+, if I did WOT from 1-2, 2nd would be burning quite a bit of tire before it caught on and rocketed forward. With JB+, it either feels like it's laying down power better or there's less power lol.

What does your 1st to 2nd WOT feel like?

Unsure if it's cause it's warmer in NorCal today and the tires are sufficiently warm or if cause there's something odd going on.

Drop in power could be timing pull since you're on 91. Like others said, put 2-3 gallons of E in and the max setting on JB+ should be fine.

Funny enough, the power hesitations that started happening with my JB+ ended up just being traction control. With sport traction on, there is no doubt at all that the JB is faster.

 

[BMWAF]

So can I just clarify.. if I'm going to run 93 (98RON) exclusively, will a JB+ work fine? I'm not interested in adding extra sauce to the mix. Just pure 93. Every tank.

???

 

[lucky phil]

I like the way in the video there's all those throw away lines like "with the power and torque we're making now the std clutch is obviously not good enough"' etc etc. You look at the std clutch on the bench and it looks perfect. What the std clutch slipped hard on the dyno or failed? If it had slipped hard on the dyno it'd show distinct signs on the bench. Also the attitude tthat anything stock is obviously not that good and needs to be replaced. The misinformation about dual mass flywheels is there. DMF are to isolate engine harmonic vibrations from the driveline and provide a more refined vehicle NVH wise. Nothing to do with driveline backlash. Some gearboxes will actually fail due to engine related harmonic vibrations under some driving conditions. I mean the upgraded product looks very nice quality but where's the evidence the std clutch isn't a competent unit even with a bit of a power and torque upgrade. Answer appears there isn't any. I have no doubt that if you go bananas then you'll need a more robust clutch but bagging out the original design as somehow inadequate and a suspect design seems an overreach to me. Lets face it it's an infomercial and should be viewed as such. I'd be happier if they just said the original clutch is just fine but if you want to make big torque it's safer to upgrade as long as you can live with the disadvantages. And there will be disadvantages.
I'm betting the review will be awesome upgrade and everything's better, as usual with these things.

Phil

 

[puppers]

Drop in power could be timing pull since you're on 91. Like others said, put 2-3 gallons of E in and the max setting on JB+ should be fine.

Funny enough, the power hesitations that started happening with my JB+ ended up just being traction control. With sport traction on, there is no doubt at all that the JB is faster.

Interesting. I could’ve sworn that 91ACN is recommended and the minimum (per BMS’s instructions). Not sure I’m going to want to toss ethanol in every tank, but I am going to try that tomorrow and see how it works.

Thanks for the advice and input. I’ll report back.

 

[ColonelAdama]

So can I just clarify.. if I'm going to run 93 (98RON) exclusively, will a JB+ work fine? I'm not interested in adding extra sauce to the mix. Just pure 93. Every tank.

???

Yes, 93 is plenty for the default setting. If you turn the dial to max, it should be fine too, but E would help.

Interesting. I could’ve sworn that 91ACN is recommended and the minimum (per BMS’s instructions). Not sure I’m going to want to toss ethanol in every tank, but I am going to try that tomorrow and see how it works.

Thanks for the advice and input. I’ll report back.

Couldn't find BMS's recommendation on their website, but adding 4.5 psi of boost is a pretty significant amount to be on 91. I believe the default position for the JB+ is intended for 91.

Let us know how it works in the JB+ thread so we don't derail this one!

 

[Stvee]

Now that my engine is broken in I've been doing some full throttle pulls and ran into the traction control a few times. Are you guys that are experiencing slip sure that it's not just the traction control kicking in? It feels pretty similar to a slipping clutch in these cars.

I'm not saying this is everyone's issue, but next time you experience it just try turning that off.

So far zero issues otherwise but I'm still removing the CDV hopefully next week. It's worth it for the better drivability alone. For anyone doubting, people have been removing the CDV in BMW's for 3 decades now. The effects are well documented to say the least.

Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Modification

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