SUPRA ULTIMATE JB4 GUIDE AND LOG REVIEW (V1)

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ColonelAdama

ColonelAdama

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i3igpete

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You're banging the limiter on both logs there. Just FYI, the throttle starts to close in anticipation of the limiter at ~6800 rpm or so.

1713815126934-f5.png


The second log has a clean pull on there. But again, your foot doesn't go all the way down until you're over 4000 and 3rd. Throttle stays above 80% after your foot is all the way down and before you hit the limiter, and boost is within 1psi of dme_bt+target, so this tells me boost control is decent, you're just not requesting very much (map 1 adds +2psi above 6000).

1713815093290-ah.png


1713815929825-rj.png


Ignition timing is "okay". Its detecting knock and pulling timing in some cylinders, but not enough to drop all of them like a rock. When your timing starts to diverge from each other, but are still able to (jaggedly) climbing to redline, that's about the limit of the boost you can run with this fuel. Don't need to turn it down, but can't add more.

1713815669336-cq.png


You'll also notice that in all of your logs, boost drops after the shift and takes 5-7 timesteps to recover. This is because when you hit the limiter or traction control kicks in, you get a "lazy" shift without the fart/brap. Yet another reason to shift a little earlier.
 

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You're banging the limiter on both logs there. Just FYI, the throttle starts to close in anticipation of the limiter at ~6800 rpm or so.

1713815126934-f5.png


The second log has a clean pull on there. But again, your foot doesn't go all the way down until you're over 4000 and 3rd. Throttle stays above 80% after your foot is all the way down and before you hit the limiter, and boost is within 1psi of dme_bt+target, so this tells me boost control is decent, you're just not requesting very much (map 1 adds +2psi above 6000).

1713815093290-ah.png


1713815929825-rj.png


Ignition timing is "okay". Its detecting knock and pulling timing in some cylinders, but not enough to drop all of them like a rock. When your timing starts to diverge from each other, but are still able to (jaggedly) climbing to redline, that's about the limit of the boost you can run with this fuel. Don't need to turn it down, but can't add more.

1713815669336-cq.png


You'll also notice that in all of your logs, boost drops after the shift and takes 5-7 timesteps to recover. This is because when you hit the limiter or traction control kicks in, you get a "lazy" shift without the fart/brap. Yet another reason to shift a little earlier.
OK, so as soon as it hits redline I should be shifting, not just letting it drag. Makes sense lol.

When you say "When your timing starts to diverge from each other, but are still able to (jaggedly) climbing to redline, that's about the limit of the boost you can run with this fuel. Don't need to turn it down, but can't add more.", does that mean there is no reason to try Map 2 with the fuel I am using right now? Or would you need better logs to fully determine that?

Bit of an idiot, so thanks for the help and for explaining everything.
 

i3igpete

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OK, so as soon as it hits redline I should be shifting, not just letting it drag. Makes sense lol.

When you say "When your timing starts to diverge from each other, but are still able to (jaggedly) climbing to redline, that's about the limit of the boost you can run with this fuel. Don't need to turn it down, but can't add more.", does that mean there is no reason to try Map 2 with the fuel I am using right now? Or would you need better logs to fully determine that?

Bit of an idiot, so thanks for the help and for explaining everything.
The general consensus is that power/boost peaks way before 6500 and that's when it really takes a nosedive, so there's no point in going all the way. the gears are so short and you only drop 1300-ish rpm between shorts, so even if you shift super early, you'll still be in boost.

You can certainly try a map 2, but I can guarantee the timing will be worse. Whether or not it makes more power, only way to find out for sure on the dyno or if you get a dragy box.
 

JosA90

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The general consensus is that power/boost peaks way before 6500 and that's when it really takes a nosedive, so there's no point in going all the way. the gears are so short and you only drop 1300-ish rpm between shorts, so even if you shift super early, you'll still be in boost.

You can certainly try a map 2, but I can guarantee the timing will be worse. Whether or not it makes more power, only way to find out for sure on the dyno or if you get a dragy box.
Gotcha, so the timing issue, is that a driver issue? Car issue? Fuel issue?
 

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Gotcha, so the timing issue, is that a driver issue? Car issue? Fuel issue?
When you do a pull, leave it in drive but use the paddles to shift down to 3rd manually. That way it will hold 3rd long enough for you to start the pull and shift automatically when it needs to.
 
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Hello I recently purchased an used jb4 and ran map 4 took a log and it looks good to me for what i have gathered from this forum any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Should i add another gallon of E85 Total of 3 or what you recommend
 
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Should i add another gallon of E85 Total of 3 or what you recommend
No, keep as is. Will go lean if you add any more ethanol. No recommendations, Map is perfect for your fuel and car. Some throttle activity, but looking at the boost2 curve - it fits target nicely and is smooth.

1713893027821-g4.png
 
 




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