Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

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Todday1

Todday1

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*******Fixed...mixed up Raybestos and PFC in my head...

Anybody run the PFC 11 compound? Marketed as a "sprint/medium distance" race compound. PFC is cagey about releasing actual stats on their compounds...all I can find is a graph that makes it look like top of the temp range is 800 deg C, no (biased) CoF info that I can find.

The other interesting option is the new-ish Hawk ER-1 endurance compound which is supposed to behave like an ST-43. Max temp range looks like 1600 deg F (871 C), but suggested operating temp is around 1100 F (593 C). CoF is on a stupid graph...looks like .46 to .50, for what it's worth.

I can't find anyone on here that has run either one, and nobody in my circle of track friends has either.
I am glad the discussions are including temp ranges. My fronts operate in the 1400 + range and rears 1000 to 1200 range. Heat painting rotor helps figure out what level pads you need.
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tomfree

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I am glad the discussions are including temp ranges. My fronts operate in the 1400 + range and rears 1000 to 1200 range. Heat painting rotor helps figure out what level pads you need.
Interesting, I've heard of the stuff, but I've never used that paint before. Assuming you're looking at the rotors as soon as you get into the paddock, does the color indicate the peak temperature reached, or does it indicate the current temperature?

That reminds me that I need to bring my pyrometer to the track for stuff like this.
 

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Interesting, I've heard of the stuff, but I've never used that paint before. Assuming you're looking at the rotors as soon as you get into the paddock, does the color indicate the peak temperature reached, or does it indicate the current temperature?

That reminds me that I need to bring my pyrometer to the track for stuff like this.
Peak. You can also get stickers for the calipers. https://www.rogueengineering.com/Brembo-Caliper-Temperature-Sticker-Pair_p_22.html
 
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Todday1

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Interesting, I've heard of the stuff, but I've never used that paint before. Assuming you're looking at the rotors as soon as you get into the paddock, does the color indicate the peak temperature reached, or does it indicate the current temperature?

That reminds me that I need to bring my pyrometer to the track for stuff like this.
 

FLtrackdays

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I can testify that the SM-RS 18" ET30 with Maxis RC-1s work but I had to remove the rubber on the perch. Very tight but fine.


Man I am stuck need something for the summer. Maybe another Stock set errr
Wow there was a lot said above. Not all from you but here goes…

As far as a summer “pad”, I keep my track pads on all season. There is some squeal, but it’s not bad. As least down here, rarely cold. And there is more dust. But they work fine in town. As for track use, the Hawk DTC60s are great. Even for experienced drivers. I still run them when I can‘t get a better pad up front. Thanks to Bryan’s (Razorlab) suggestion I tried project mu 999. Unfortunately I loved them, lol. They are still on there from my last track day. Sebring has some really high speed straights that I can brake a bit sooner with those on. Hawk DTC30s are perfect for the rear. I’ll keep using those regardless of what’s up front.

Backup consumables are a must. I‘ve got a set of project mu Club racers (finally came in -forgot I ordered 😂), Hawk DTC 60s and 30s. If my p mu 999s don’t come in by October, I might finally bite the bullet and try the most expensive pad on the planet for our Supra -the mighty CSG 💪 💰My biggest fear is that I’ll like those too 🫣

Someone mentioned rotor wear. You can get new ones from RockAuto incredibly cheap. So I keep a spare set, front and rear. When it’s time to put some new pads on, bed the shit out of them like Bob (Rock) says and there shouldn’t be any mating issues.
 
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Rob_SER

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Got in touch with a Canadian Project Mu supplier yesterday. He said the Club racers are in stock at Project Mu and the special order would take ~2 weeks to fullfil. I don't know if the import process is different here in Canada than in the US and that would affect availability, but I ordered them... Will keep you posted.
 

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Got in touch with a Canadian Project Mu supplier yesterday. He said the Club racers are in stock at Project Mu and the special order would take ~2 weeks to fullfil. I don't know if the import process is different here in Canada than in the US and that would affect availability, but I ordered them... Will keep you posted.
I tried Evasive yesterday and they said 3-4 months
 

Rob_SER

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I also reached out to Titan Motorsports yeasterday, they checked with Project Mu and came back to me this morning saying 4 to 6 weeks...
 

ciccio90

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Friday was a good track day.

It was a hot day but my tires got unbelievably hot @ 158F...recorded by the car.

Not sure if it's a RT660 thing or a combination of the heat that day.

Hoping CRS will wear a bit better

Image (6).jpg


Image (5).jpg
 

Rob_SER

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Friday was a good track day.

It was a hot day but my tires got unbelievably hot @ 158F...recorded by the car.

Not sure if it's a RT660 thing or a combination of the heat that day.

Hoping CRS will wear a bit better

Image (6).jpg


Image (5).jpg
Whre were you? TMP, Calabogie, Mosport?
 

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It was a hot day but my tires got unbelievably hot @ 158F...recorded by the car.
158 is actually not bad at all. Almost to perfect operating temp. Keep driving!

Your photo of the tire looks normal? Most of that is track rubber you picked up.
 

Traxion

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Friday was a good track day.

It was a hot day but my tires got unbelievably hot @ 158F...recorded by the car.

Not sure if it's a RT660 thing or a combination of the heat that day.

Hoping CRS will wear a bit better
Looks normal to me and I wouldn't consider 158F overly hot either. Above optimal temps but nothing to worry about as long as you know you may need to start braking earlier or reduce corner speed. In the afternoon sessions in June/July in the south I can hit 200-215F near the last 1-2 hotlaps of a session.
 
 




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